Fundamental rules for smart boiler control

Each rule in the smart home can consist of triggers, conditions and scenes. Triggers consist of one of more alternative events any of which cause the rule to be evaluated. The optional Conditions consist of one or more statements all of which must be true for the rule to be satisfied. Scenes consists of one or more scenes that are set when the rule is satisfied.

For my heating control I have two scenes that set the boiler on or off, and triggers and conditions reflecting the status of the radiators.

TriggersConditionsScenes
Any valve goes to closed .... and all valves are closed .... then cancel boiler.
Any valve moves off closed ..{none}.. then enable boiler.

As an alternative I considered rules using temperature, but that would make things more complicated if the temperature set point is adjusted as you might need to change the rules; whereas by having rules based only on (fully) closed and (partially) open then the set point can be adjusted without issue.  Additionally you can control around a very low vacation set point for frost protection.  Effectively there are four set points:

  1. Closed – which is forced by a summer setting, but also occurs at other times when no heat is demanded.
  2. Vacation temperature – 5 C for me – a low set point for frost protection, but from which it might take an extended period to warm up.
  3. Economy temperature – 10 C for me – a lower temperature limit during normal scheduled operation.
  4. Comfort temperature – 24 C for me – a minimum temperature avoiding complaints from my wife!

My system retains the original 7 day timer, which these days I use only to control water heating.  If I did enable the 7 day timer as well as the smart controls then the boiler would be enabled when either the 7 day timer or the smart controls demanded it.

Please follow and like Greening Me:

Advantages of smart heating

I thought that I’d describe some of the features of the smart heating controls versus the prior single zone system with TRVs and a 7 day timer. My main interest is of course to save gas by heating the home more selectively, but there are other opportunities that you may consider significant.

I don’t yet have sufficient data to illustrate any operational savings, but continue to record gas consumption to compare with prior years.

 

 Prior system with 7 day timer and TRVsCurrent smart system with some eTRVs
ZonesSingleMultiple
Schedule7 day - working week plus weekendsInfinitely flexible home / working schedule based on iPad calendar
Adjustment of timers and thermostatsManualvia App (with voice control!)
Remote adjustmentNoYes - enabled by Apple TV as hub
Holiday settingNo Yes - sets low level heat for frost protection
Summer settingNo Yes - closes all valves
Integration with non-heating smart devicesNoYes
Please follow and like Greening Me:

Generations of my solar charger

I just came across some of the pictures from last year of different iterations as I was developing my solar powered car charger.


The left picture shows my first attempt using a Mode 2 charger (i.e. one that plugs into a standard socket outlet). The design attempted to turn the car on and off by the equivalent of pushing the latch button on the vehicle connector. That approach stopped charging effectively, but starting charging was subject to long delays so that wasn’t a practical solution.

The middle picture show the second attempt using a commercial Mode 3 charger (i.e. one that’s hardwired into the fixed wiring). In this iteration the commercial charger was gutted so that, although it retained the original external appearance, inside was all different content including a protocol controller and a radio receiver. This was an effective on/off solution.

The right picture shows the third iteration which addd a programmable logic controller to generate a variable charge rate for the electric car i.e. more than just simple on/off. The hardware to achieve this is too bulky for the case of the commercial charger, and so it was repackaged in consumer unit case. A consumer unit case is cost-effective solution for a bigger box to house the DIN rail mounting components, but is of course only suitable for indoor use as it’s not waterproof to the required standard for outdoor use.

Please follow and like Greening Me:

Oops no heat

No heat this morning (not that its absence is a major issues as the weather is fairly mild). Initial analysis via the Apple Home App is that some of the radiator valves can’t be reached, and thus I assume that the rules that enable the gas boiler can’t be satisfied.

As a short term fix I could have turned on the boiler manually via the app or using the central timer which is normally set to off for space heating (but not hot water) when using the smart controls, but I didn’t need to do that as I quickly found the root cause.

I initially thought that there was some corruption in the configuration of individual valves, so I was planning to delete them from the App and then re-pair them, but then I spotted that as I moved around the house I was losing different valves, so I turned my attention to the hub i.e. the Apple TV box.

Turning on the box it appears that it downloaded a software update overnight. As soon as I acknowledged a screen describing the changes then all the valves became reachable, the control rules were satisfied, and the gas boiler was enabled.

It would be more robust if you could specify a default value in a rule to be used if the actual value was unavailable from the device.  The actual value being unavailable would also happen with a flat device battery for example.

Please follow and like Greening Me:

Here’s a little Tonik..


Today my energy supplier Tonik wrote to me inviting me to consider solar panels, a car charger, or a storage battery – all of which I already have.  However on their website I found a wider vision of the future home which they thought could halve energy consumption. I thought it would be interesting to compare their vision with my status.

As you can see from the table below the content is quite similar, although I have more ambitious use of solar and more sophisticated smart heating management.

Tonik's VisionMy status
Switch to Tonik for lowest cost renewable electricity.Done.
Smart meterWaiting on Tonik
Connected thermostat (whole of house device)Connected thermostats (individual room temperatures and schedules)
LED bulbsDone.
Smart tariffWithout a smart meter on nearest equivalent (Economy 7)
Solar PV Done.
Battery storage.Done.
-Surplus solar electricity diverted to charge electric car.
-Surplus solar electricity diverted to heat water.
Please follow and like Greening Me:

Using an Apple TV box as a home hub


When I first set up the smart home system I used my iPad as a hub.  You don’t need a hub at all for the individual smart radiator valves to follow their daily schedules, but the use of a hub is required for devices to interact with each other (such as a valve calling for the boiler to come on) or indeed to identify which days are working days and which are non-working days (since this is taken from a calendar). However of course this doesn’t work when the iPad is removed from the home.

The solution is to configure an Apple TV box as a home hub – enabling devices to communicate via the TV box.  This also enables remote control so a user with an iPad can operate the system when away from the home – such as disabling the vacation settings while still on vacation to allow the house to warm up.

Of course the Apple TV box can also be used to watch TV which my daughter uses to watch CBeebies or YouTube kids TV via the appropriate apps.

To date we have 7 smart devices – 6 radiator valves divided between 4 rooms, and a socket which is used to enable the boiler when any smart valve demands heat.

Please follow and like Greening Me:

Contents of my solar car charger

My electric car charger is built into a case more normally used for household consumer units.  From left to right its contents are:

  1. 2 slots – Double pole on/off switch to isolate the incoming mains supply entering from below.
  2. 4 slots – Programmable Logic Controller (PLC) which takes 2 inputs (remote on/off via radio link and contactor status – see item #4) and generates 1 of 4 outputs (corresponding to off, 6 Amps, 10 Amps or 16 Amps).  Beneath the PLC (and not visible inside the case) sits a circuit board with an array of resistors corresponding to the required current settings.
  3. 2 slots – Protocol controller which handles the Mode 3 handshake with the car and switches between current settings based on the selected resistor.
  4. 1 slot – Contactor which turns the power to the vehicle on/off based on the output from the protocol controller.  Cable to car exits below.
  5. 1 slot – unused.

The dedicated charger circuit is fed from a RCBO in a small consumer unit on the other side of the garage which combines overcurrent protection (20 Amps) and Type A residual current detection (30 mA).

 

 

 

Please follow and like Greening Me:

A mixed August day of charging


Today I was at home working on a DIY project while the car was on charge for much of the day, a day which was fairly mixed in weather terms.  I thought it would be appropriate for an update on the car charger which has been in operation for around a year.

You may recall that the car generally remains plugged into the charger whenever it is at home, but doesn’t generally charge until there’s sufficient surplus on the solar panels, unless timed charging has been enabled for when the weather isn’t so sunny.

The picture shows the charger itself built into a case intended for a consumer unit.  Alongside the charger sits the receiver for the Mainslink system which provides for a radio signal from the house turning on the charger in the garage.  The smaller black unit is the holster for the vehicle connector so that it doesn’t lie on the floor when not in use.

The screenshot to the left shows the electricity consumption of the house including the car charger (the purple line) tracking the output of the solar panels (the green area).  Any failure to fully use all the electricity available causes the remaining electrical surplus to be diverted via a proportional control to the immersion heater to make hot water (the blue line).

Over the course of the day although we’ve used 17.1 kWh of electricity directly, and another 2.8 kWh of electricity for water heating (making 19.9 kWh used in total); but we’ve bought only 3.1 kWh of electricity.

Please follow and like Greening Me:

Solar output – 2017 Jan – Jun

2017 H1

Now that we’re half way through 2017 it seemed appropriate to have a look at energy usage from the solar panels – especially as those six months reflect the first six months with the battery storage system.

The graph is taken from my ImmerSUN smart controller which automatically diverts surplus solar electricity to the car charger or immersion heater.  The battery storage system has independent controls but its benefits can be seen via the ImmerSUN.

The purple line shows the consumption of electricity (excluding the immersion heater) and is relatively stable month by month.  Consumption is relatively large due to my electric car and cooking with electricity.

The green line shows the generation of electricity from my solar panels.  Not surprisingly output is lower in the winter, but from April we generate more electricity than we use despite our relatively high consumption.  In principle we could be electricity independent during those months but for the time of consumption not matching the time of generation.

The red line complements the green line as it shows the import or purchase of electricity from the grid, and thus reduces as the generation rises.

The blue line shows the diversion  of electricity to heat water via the immersion heater when neither the battery storage system nor the car charger can absorb the available electricity.

Finally on the graph the turquoise line shows export of electricity to the grid when all smart capability within the house to use electricity is exhausted i.e. battery storage system at maximum power or full, electric car battery full or absent, and water in cylinder is hot.

Among the numbers:

‘Savings” at £80 refer only to the value of the water heating achieved from solar electricity versus buying electricity (although our backup is mains gas).

“Self consumption” at 86% refers to the proportion of solar panel output used i.e. not exported to the grid.

“Green contribution” at 59% refers to the proportion of total electricity consumption (excluding water heating) derived from the panels rather than from the grid.

 

Please follow and like Greening Me: